The Central Lombok

The broad corridor of central Lombok stretching from the west to the east coast between the towering mass of Gunung Rinjani and its neighbours to the north and the lower range of coastal hills to the south, is the densely populated agricultural heartland of the island. It's here that you'll see typically Indonesian rice-terraces in the southern foothills of the soaring volcanoes. Some small-scale tourist facilities have developed in the hills to cater for visitors in search of cool relaxation.

The main places of interest are the Hindu palaces and temples in the west and the villages specializing in craft production scattered along the cross-island route. Eastern Lombok is far drier than the west and much quieter, and most travellers pass through quickly, either via the east-coast port of Labuhan Lombok or on the coast road round to the north of the island, although the islands just off the northeast coast are well worth a look if you want to get off the beaten track. Reasonably well served by bemos and buses, much of the centre and the east is accessible without your own transport, and accommodation options are gradually increasing, although they are still fairly limited in the east. Note that there are very few moneychangers east of Sweta.

Stretching for 74 km from the Ampenan-Mataram-Cakranegara-Sweta conurbation in the west to Labuhan Lombok in the east the main road across the island is the nearest thing to a highway that you'll find, and passes close to many of the most attractive places in central Lombok Set high enough in the hills to be cool, and situated to make the most of the local scenery, the accommodation in the small village of Tetebatu and, to a lesser extent in Sapit, is becoming increasingly popular. Down on the plains, Lendang Nangka has become something of a pilgrimage for travellers seeking the "real" village experience. The culturally minded make stops at Hindu sites at Narmada, Pura Lingsar and Suranadi, while the craft villages dotted throughout the area offer the chance to see potters, weavers and blacksmiths at work.

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