The Central Lombok
Lendang Nangka and Beyond:The East

Further east, but not easy to find, the village of PENAKAK lies just off the in road, 1500m east of the magical domes, spires and towering minarets of the bol new mosque at the main crossroads in MASBAGIK Look out for a pottery shop on the north side of the main road and you'll see the turning to Penakak almost opposite it This is one of the three villages involved in the Lombok Craft project, and the road through the village is lined with Potteries. The range of goods produced and the variety of glazes and engraving used is enormous, and the potteries provide an overseas shipping service.

The waterfalls at PANCOR KOPONG and PANCOR BULING are accessible by taking a cidomo from Masbagik to Nibas (3km) and then walking the last kilometre from Nibas, or on foot from Pritiggasela (2km); either way its best to ask the way. 'Me falls are not especially high, but they're impressively wide and set in the midst of attractive rice-fields with pleasant walks roundabout

Five kilometres north of the cross-island road from REMPUNG is the local weaving centre of PRINGGASEILA Local women make both songket and ikat cloth here on simple backstrap looms, and there are several small workshops in the village. Akmal Homestay (including three meals), just north of the crossroads in the village centre, has a great atmosphere and small rooms in the family compound with shared bathroom. They also provide guests with a highly informative map of the area. Across the alleyway, Rainbow Rasta (including breakfast) also run a cloth shop and can arrange Rinjani trekking (from US$150 per person for a one-day/two-night trip to the rim to US$200 for five nights/six days, including the summit and the lake).

For an excursion well off the beaten track, the road up to TIMBANUH, 8km north of Pringgasela via Pengadangan, ascends to the southern foothill%of Rinjani through coffee, banana and rambutan Plantations. It's a shady, picturesque trip until the road ends at Losmen Timbanuh, an old colonial bungalow offering ghastly rooms, distant bathrooms, and a stagnant swltnmlnk pool, but views across to Sumbawa that are utterly spell-binding. You need your own transport to get here.

Back on the main road at LENEK another small road heads north and, after about 31km, a wide dirt track, opposite the kepala desa's office, leads another 11an to LOANG GELI, the site of a cold freshwater spring, From the parking spot its 100m down a gently sloping path to the swimming area where the sDring flows into a deep concrete pool. The pool is surrounded by the Monkey Por~st, but crowds here are often so large that the monkeys keep away during the day. If you want to stay longer and enjoy some peace, try Loang Geli Cottages, though they're desperately in need of renovation and youll need to bring your own food.

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